WALKING OUR BOOTS HOME: MONTEBELLUNA TO OSLO
Amundsen Field Trips
May 13, 2025
Amundsen Field Trips
May 13, 2025
Over the last few years we have been developing our brand new boots; the Ilujjiniq Mountain Mucks. Before going into production we decided to put them to test; pick up the final prototypes from our boot factory in Montebelluna, and walk them home to Oslo.
After a long and challenging development process together with shoe-guru Fabio Deon and master shoe makers Monte Sport, we were excited to get the full run-down of the boot production from vegetable tanned leather through the precise hand craftsmanship to the finished boot.
When all 4 boots were ready, we chucked our old trainers in the trash, laced up our brand new Amundsen Boots, and proudly walked out of the factory heading towards our first obstacle bearing north; the Dolomites.
After running through the charming city of Montebelluna, we just made the train with 30 seconds margin. Next stop Cortina.
Woke up early in Cortina to a clear blue sky, no wind and warm temperatures. The first part of the day we would be accompanied by Fabio – the boot-guru, Jamie from Monocle Magazine and his photographer for the day; James.
We had brought wooden skis from Ronning Ski with bindings dedicated to regular hiking boots. The winter had been unusually strong with snow still stretching far down the valleys, so we basically strapped on our skis from the starting point. Skiing with such bindings was a new experience for all of us, and it worked surprisingly well.
The first part took us up a path through the forest. At several spots we had to make detours as big recent avalanches blocked our path. There was a good reason to why we would not meet any people out in the Dolomites this time of year. Even the mountain guides stayed away now, but we had gotten friendly advice from local mountain guide Gerd Heiter who had helped us plot out a fairly safe route through the high faces and deep valleys.
As the trees got more scattered we got grand views of the Dolomites shooting straight up on all sides. We found a good spot for lunch – lots of pancetta in the pan accompanied by Salami, Parmesan and a glass of Italian red wine.
After lunch we said goodbye to Jamie, James and Fabio, and continued up towards the high mountains. A couple of rather big avalanches showed their strength on the other side of the valley as we ascended – reminding us not to take any risks what so ever.
After 10-hour ski-touring, we reached Grosse Fanesalm hütte. A small shelter we had been told might be open. We were relieved to the find the door unlocked. This small hütt offered a a bunk bed, a bench and a table. We fired up the old Italian fireplace and cooked our steaks and pasta brought from Montebelluna – the extra weight is usually worth it!
After going through the days route a last time, enjoying a cup of coffee in the sun heated wooden panel of the hüt and filling up our water bottles in the free running river passing the hüt, we swung our 120-litre Norrøna back-packs up just to realize that last nights dinner and the mornings breakfast had substantially reduced the weight on our shoulders.
The day started with a few hundred meters ascent into Limosee as the highest point on the route, before starting a playful descent down to Faneshütte.
As everything else in the Dolomites this time of year, the rifugio was closed, but its beautiful terrace bathing in sun and with stunning views made for a great spot for lunch. After another round of Pancetta, Salami and local cheese, we took a nap in the shadow on the hot stone floor of the terrace.
We skied most of the remaining descent down to Pederu at 1500 meters. Originally our route headed from Pederu over the next high faces and down to Braies on the other side. However, this route was simply too risky for avalanches now, and we were lucky to catch a ride around the mountain with some locals, to again pick up our original route from Braies.
A beautiful frozen lake nested between vertical faces shooting up on three sides, made for a perfect camp spot. A hütt built on long posts out on the lake served perfectly for fixing our hammocks to and the floor of the hut then offered roof above our heads. A bonfire on the beach, some steaks, spaghetti, tomato sauce and red wine dozed us of in each our floating beds.
We caught the morning train from Wellsberg to the Brenner Pass, leaving Italy behind entering Austria.
We had been invited to stay at an ancient monastery about 1700m up the mountain, which happened to be on our Northern route to Oslo. With the heavy back-packs, the steep ascent up 600 vertical meters was tough. We got to the top only to find out that the monks would not open the monastery after all. Change of plans.
We decided to carry on towards Innsbruck instead. With the help of a truly friendly bicycle rental shop in Innsbruck, Die Boerse, we had 4 road racing bikes delivered to us at the top of the mountain.
The first part of the descent was covered in snow. Skis back on and rolling the bikes by our sides as we slide down the mountain. It was a relief as we hit concrete roads and rolled down the remaining of the mountain on the fast bikes.
It was already dark, and with our headlights on, we glided down the valley to Innsbruck – listening to Bob Marley on the speaker – arriving just in time for a late-night sausage at a food stand down town. Then the rain hit pretty hard – you can call that luck!
We did not have to hand back the bikes until late afternoon, so we decided to spend the day exploring the city. The rain clouds from last night were nowhere to be seen and it felt good with an easy day just drifting around looking at the life of Innsbruck.
Several cups of coffee and glasses of milk later (the fat sweet milk in this area is unbeatable) we needed to carry on North, and took the train to Garmisch area.
We hiked into the big lake Plansee, and arrived long after dark. By chance we stumbled across what seemed to be a charming, closed farmstead a bit up the hillside from the lake. Along the side of the house, we found an about 8m long horse-crib, half a meter up from the ground – just long enough for all 4 of us stretching out. The best outdoor bed any of us had ever had!
We cooked the big and by now repetitive meal with steaks, spaghetti, mozzarella and tomatoes, before dozing off into the starry night in the crib.
The night in the crib of the farmstead by the lake close to Garmisch offered us the best sleep so far on this journey. Dry, warm and complete silence except for the small river passing close by. Topping that with eggs, bacon and coffee made for a pretty decent start of the day.
Unfortunately, we could not hang around for too long. We had a long hike in front of us, and JC had a flight to catch that same evening from Munich (yes, JC unfortunately had to head back to Colorado to take care of the US office).
The strong sun had us dripping of sweat, and we stopped half way to take a dip in the cool turquoise lake, dried off on the beach afterwards before speeding on towards the closest train station that would take us Munich.
The 3 remaining of us, left the alps behind us as we railed towards the Black Forest.
Late in the night we got to the hotel in a quiet deserted-looking neighbourhood on the outskirts of the forest, only to find it dark and closed. We kept calling and knocking the door for almost 15 minutes, and as we were about to give up, an old lady suddenly appeared behind the frosted glass door. She opened the door and let us in. The interior that met us reminded us of a blend between a David Lynch movie and the Shining. Rather spooked out we tried to explain that we had already reserved and paid for the room online, which was refused by the old lady on the grounds that her computer was turned off.
Still she went and got the keys and walked us down the long dark corridor with wall-to-wall carpets covered in flowers. Time had really stood still here since the 50s. The rooms were huge, more like small apartments and we all locked the doors behind us and slept with one eye half open that night.
The Black Forest, home to Hansel und Gretchen and other spooky Grimm tales, lied in front of us. It has become cooler than the previous week in the high mountains. The contrasts were many and and we felt a bit at home like in Nordmarka, Oslo. We walked on small paths through rather steep terrain in the beginning.
We arrived Grünhütte after a few hours, where rugged lumberjacks gathered for few beers around lunchtime. For our own part, we only had a few coins just enough for a cup of coffe and tea.
We continued further onto Wildsee were we had a quick lunch before continuing onwards in the direction of Baden-Baden.
Baden-Baden waiting on the other side of the forest is famous around the world for its thermal baths. After 8 days with heavy packs and long days hiking, biking and skiing our bodies would not mind some hot water and our feet a little break. Baden-Baden also had a variety of charming restaurants, and we sure found some delicious food in the warm spring night.
Clean and with filled up stomachs, we started the next stretch, the long stretch, on the train all the way through the rest of Germany and into Denmark.
Route; Baden-Baden – Frankfurt – Hannover – Hamburg – Neumünster – Flensburg – Aalborg. 17 Hours.
After the long and not too comfortable train ride, it felt great to continue the walk again. Never before have we been on the west coast of Denmark in no wind, but this was the weather that greeted us back to Scandinavia.
The sand on the beach was packed rather dense close to the edge of the ocean, so the walk was rather effortless… and flat. These beaches seem to stretch on and on, and we found it rather meditative as the rhythm of the walk fused in with the repetitive sound of the waves coming in and dilute on the beach close to feet.
After a full day’s hike up the beaches, we reached the small village Lønstrup. Time for dinner – we entered the first restaurant we passed; Villa Vest.
True Nordic gourmet, but already too late to turn around as we had inhaled the wonderful scents drifting out from the kitchen… we had passed the point of no return.
We were definitely not their typical customers as we crashed in wearing dirty and by now rather smelly clothes, which again may have been the reason why they put us in a Chambre Separee? The menu was set, so no choices to be made. The food that followed was simply outstanding.
So with our pockets full of empty and a stomach full of dreams (almost as Kris Kristoffersen would put it), we stumbled out on the beach and continued on the endless stretches of sand going home.
About 2 in the morning, we found a suitable camp spot up on the grass covered sand dunes with a view up the beach. We quickly fell asleep to the continuous sound of the ocean – the only element separating us from Norway.
It had been cold during the night as we woke up to rime all over our sleeping bags, yet comfy as we laid there about 20m above the beach protected by the high grass.
This was the day we would set foot on Homeland, but first some pulled pork in the frying pan for breakfast – before continuing North along the beaches of west coast Jutland.
Another calm and beautiful day followed us all the way to the ferry that would sail us across Skagerak to Norway.
Jørgen’s family summer cabin was close by, and we did not mind stopping by for his mother’s BBQ and a bottle of red wine, before heading out to the smooth rocks by ocean shore for a last camp on this journey.
It was the first time on this journey that we woke up freezing. We gathered closely around the primus to warm our hands and feet while we cooked eggs and bacon for the last time.
Later in the morning we were to be picked up by pilots Alex Fuglesang and Kenneth Jakobsen in each their sea planes from a nearby beach.
We flew at low altitudes along the coast line into the Oslo Fjord before touching water again at Fornebu. Big thanks to the pilots for this high flying finally of our adventure.
The unloading of our big Norrøna backpacks and trusting Rønning skis that had been our good companions since the Dolomites, marked the end of a fortnight of adventures and another great field test; The boots had delivered above all expectations and only minor modifications will be made – a separate field test report will follow for the boots.
